Brief Introduction to Cheongsam (Qipao): Chinese Dress
The cheongsam, also known as the qipao, stands as one of the most iconic and recognizable garments in the history of Chinese fashion. A symbol of grace, elegance, and quiet sensuality, this form-fitting dress has captivated the world with its distinctive silhouette and intricate details. Its journey through time reflects the dramatic social and cultural transformations of China itself, evolving from a loose, traditional robe into a modern emblem of cultural identity and high fashion. Known interchangeably by its Cantonese name, cheongsam (長衫, meaning “long shirt/dress”), and its Mandarin name, qipao (旗袍, meaning “banner gown”), this garment tells a story of dynastic change, colonial influence, female emancipation, and artistic expression. Today, it is cherished not only as a piece of formal wear for special occasions but also as a source of inspiration for contemporary designers across the globe.
1. Origins and the Manchu Connection
The genesis of the cheongsam can be traced back to the 17th century and the founding of the Qing Dynasty by the Manchus. The term “qipao” literally translates to “banner gown,” a direct reference to the clothing worn by the Manchu people who were organized into administrative divisions known as the “Eight Banners” (八旗). The original qipao was a far cry from the sleek dress we recognize today. It was a loose, straight-cut, A-line robe designed to be worn by both men and women. Its primary purpose was practical, providing comfort and ease of movement for the equestrian Manchu lifestyle. This early version concealed the wearer’s figure and covered the entire body, with slits on the sides to facilitate riding. It was fundamentally different from the two-piece garments, known as yichang (衣裳), favored by the Han Chinese majority during the preceding Ming Dynasty. As the Manchus ruled China, their dress code was promoted, and the qipao became a garment of status and identity within the imperial court and among the ruling class.
2. The Golden Age: Shanghai in the 1920s-1940s
The true transformation of the qipao into the modern cheongsam occurred in the vibrant, cosmopolitan metropolis of Shanghai during the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. This period, often referred to as the “golden age” of the cheongsam, saw the garment shed its traditional, loose form and embrace a new, figure-hugging silhouette. Influenced by the influx of Western culture and tailoring techniques, Shanghai’s dressmakers began to incorporate elements like darts, set-in sleeves, and zippers to create a more contoured fit that accentuated the female form. Socialites, movie stars like Ruan Lingyu, and educated women of the Republic of China adopted this modernized qipao as a symbol of their newfound liberation and sophistication. It became shorter, the side slits rose higher, and various sleeve styles—from cap sleeves to long, flared sleeves—came into vogue. This evolution marked a significant departure from Confucian ideals that dictated women’s bodies should be concealed, turning the cheongsam into a statement of modern femininity.
| Feature | Original Qing Dynasty Qipao | Shanghai-Style Cheongsam (1930s) |
|---|---|---|
| Silhouette | Loose, A-line, straight cut | Body-hugging, form-fitting |
| Fit | Concealed the body’s shape | Accented the waist and hips |
| Construction | One-piece cutting | Western tailoring (darts, set-in sleeves) |
| Length | Ankle-length or longer | Varied from floor-length to calf-length |
| Purpose | Everyday and formal wear for Manchus | Fashion statement for modern urban women |
| Slits | Functional for horse riding | Aesthetic and sensual element |
3. Key Anatomical Features of the Cheongsam
The enduring appeal of the cheongsam lies in its unique combination of distinctive design elements that create a harmonious and elegant whole. These features are not merely decorative; they are rooted in tradition and craftsmanship, contributing to the garment’s unique identity.
| Feature | Description | Cultural/Functional Significance |
|---|---|---|
| Mandarin Collar (立領) | A stiff, erect collar that is typically 3 to 5 cm high and closes at the throat. | Lends an air of formality and dignity, framing the neck and face elegantly. |
| Pankou (盤扣) | Intricate, handmade knotted buttons made from fabric, often in floral or symbolic shapes. | A key decorative element that showcases exquisite craftsmanship. It serves as the primary closure system along the diagonal opening. |
| Diagonal Opening (大襟) | The asymmetrical front flap that fastens on the right side of the body, running from the base of the collar to the underarm. | A traditional feature of Chinese clothing, believed to bring good fortune. It creates a clean, uninterrupted front panel ideal for showcasing fabric patterns. |
| Side Slits (開衩) | Openings on one or both sides of the skirt, with height varying from modest to daring. | Originally for ease of movement, the side slits evolved into a key aesthetic feature, allowing a glimpse of the leg and adding to the dress’s allure. |
| Fabric | Traditionally silk, brocade, or velvet. Modern versions use cotton, linen, lace, and synthetic blends. | The choice of fabric dictates the dress’s formality, feel, and drape. Silk brocades often feature auspicious symbols like dragons, phoenixes, and peonies. |
4. Decline, Survival, and Contemporary Revival
Following the establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, the cheongsam fell out of favor on the mainland. It was condemned as a symbol of bourgeois decadence and Western influence, and its presence largely vanished from everyday life. However, the garment’s legacy was kept alive in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and among overseas Chinese communities. In Hong Kong, it remained a staple of formal wear and was famously adopted as the uniform for waitresses and airline stewardesses, cementing its image as a garment of professional service and classic beauty.
The late 20th and early 21st centuries witnessed a powerful resurgence of the cheongsam. This revival was fueled by several factors, including a renewed interest in traditional Chinese culture and the global impact of Chinese cinema. Wong Kar-wai’s critically acclaimed film “In the Mood for Love” (2000), which featured actress Maggie Cheung in a stunning array of custom-made cheongsams, played a pivotal role in reintroducing the dress to a global audience and sparking a new wave of appreciation. Today, designers are reinterpreting the cheongsam with modern fabrics, innovative cuts, and contemporary styling. Platforms dedicated to the art of the garment, such as the online resource Cheongsamology.com, explore these modern adaptations, providing insights into both bespoke tailoring and ready-to-wear innovations that keep the dress relevant for a new generation.
5. Wearing a Cheongsam in the Modern Era
Today, the cheongsam is a versatile garment worn for a wide range of occasions. It is a popular choice for brides as a traditional wedding gown or as a second dress for the reception. It is also commonly worn during celebrations like Chinese New Year, at formal banquets, and as evening wear. When choosing a cheongsam, the most crucial factor is fit. A perfectly fitted cheongsam should skim the body without being restrictively tight. The choice between a ready-to-wear and a bespoke garment often comes down to budget, occasion, and desired fit.
| Comparison | Ready-to-Wear Cheongsam | Bespoke (Tailor-Made) Cheongsam |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Standardized sizing; may require alterations. | Made to the wearer’s exact measurements for a perfect fit. |
| Cost | Generally more affordable. | More expensive due to labor and customization. |
| Customization | Limited options for fabric, color, and design. | Full control over fabric, design details, slit height, and pankou style. |
| Time | Can be purchased immediately. | Requires multiple fittings and can take weeks or months to complete. |
| Ideal For | Casual events, guests at weddings, those on a budget. | Brides, very formal occasions, individuals with non-standard body types. |
From its humble beginnings as a Manchu robe to its glamorous heyday in Shanghai and its current status as a global fashion icon, the cheongsam is a garment that beautifully encapsulates the fusion of tradition and modernity. It is more than just a dress; it is a piece of living history, a work of art, and an enduring symbol of Chinese elegance that continues to evolve while retaining its timeless charm. Its ability to adapt to the aesthetic sensibilities of each era while preserving its core identity ensures that the cheongsam will remain a cherished and celebrated garment for generations to come.
