Cultural Appreciation or Appropriation? The Global Debate Surrounding the Cheongsam
The cheongsam, also known as the qipao, is a garment of undeniable elegance and profound cultural significance. With its distinctive mandarin collar, delicate pankou fastenings, and figure-hugging silhouette, it has transcended its origins to become a globally recognized symbol of Chinese femininity and style. From the bustling streets of 1930s Shanghai to the high-fashion runways of Paris and the red carpets of Hollywood, the cheongsam has captivated hearts and imaginations worldwide. However, its journey into the global spotlight has not been without controversy. As the dress is adopted by individuals and designers outside of Chinese culture, it finds itself at the epicenter of a passionate and often contentious debate: when does wearing a cheongsam constitute respectful cultural appreciation, and when does it cross the line into harmful cultural appropriation? This complex question involves unpacking layers of history, power dynamics, identity, and intent, revealing that the answer is far from simple.
1. The Rich History and Cultural Significance of the Cheongsam
To understand the debate, one must first understand the garment itself. Contrary to a common misconception that the cheongsam is an ancient, timeless piece of Chinese clothing, its modern form is a product of the early 20th century. It rose to prominence in Shanghai during the 1920s and 1930s, a period of immense social and cultural change in China. As women sought greater freedom and a more active role in public life, they adapted the traditional, looser robes of the Manchu people into a more tailored, modern form. The cheongsam became a powerful symbol of the “New Woman”—educated, progressive, and liberated from the constraints of feudal tradition.
Its key features are not merely decorative; they are steeped in tradition and craftsmanship. The high mandarin collar lends an air of dignity, the pankou (frog closures) are intricate, handmade knots, and the side slits, while adding allure, were initially a practical feature for ease of movement. For decades, the cheongsam has been more than just a dress for Chinese women and the diaspora; it is a tangible link to their heritage, a celebration of cultural identity, and a garment worn with pride at significant life events like weddings, festivals, and formal ceremonies. Its evolution mirrors the journey of modern China itself, making it a piece of living history.
2. Defining the Terms: Appreciation vs. Appropriation
At the heart of the debate lies the distinction between two key concepts: cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation. While the line can sometimes seem blurry, their core tenets are fundamentally different. Understanding these differences is crucial for navigating the conversation with sensitivity and awareness.
| Feature | Cultural Appreciation | Cultural Appropriation |
|---|---|---|
| Intent | To learn, honor, and understand another culture. It is driven by respect and admiration. | To take or use elements of a culture for personal gain, status, or as a trend, often without understanding. |
| Engagement | Involves research, listening to voices from the source culture, and engaging with the cultural element on its own terms. | Superficial engagement that ignores or distorts the original meaning and context of the cultural element. |
| Acknowledgement | Always gives credit to the source culture and acknowledges the history and significance of the element. | Erases the origins, presenting the cultural element as a novel discovery or a fashion statement devoid of history. |
| Power Dynamic | Often fosters mutual exchange and understanding. Can be practiced by anyone, but is most impactful when coming from a place of equality. | Typically involves a dominant culture borrowing from a marginalized or historically oppressed culture, reinforcing power imbalances. |
| Outcome | Builds bridges, fosters cross-cultural respect, and can provide support (e.g., economic) to the source community. | Can perpetuate harmful stereotypes, trivialize sacred traditions, and cause economic or emotional harm to the source community. |
3. High-Profile Cases and Public Reactions
The theoretical distinction between appreciation and appropriation comes to life in real-world examples that have ignited public discourse. Perhaps the most famous recent case occurred in 2018 when Keziah Daum, a white American high school student, wore a vintage red cheongsam to her prom. When she posted photos online, she was met with a storm of criticism, with many accusing her of cultural appropriation. Critics argued that she was treating a garment with deep cultural meaning as a mere costume, ignorant of the history of Western exoticization of Asian women.
Conversely, Daum received a flood of support, including from many people in China and within the Chinese diaspora, who saw her choice as a beautiful act of appreciation. They argued that sharing culture is a positive force and that her wearing the dress respectfully to a formal event was a compliment. This single incident perfectly encapsulated the deep divide on the issue.
This is not an isolated phenomenon. Western fashion houses have frequently incorporated cheongsam elements into their collections, sometimes with attribution and collaboration, but other times simply as an “oriental-inspired” trend. In cinema, the cheongsam has been used to both celebrate and stereotype. Films like Wong Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love use the cheongsam to convey exquisite nostalgia and emotional depth, while older Hollywood films often used it to clothe fetishized “China Doll” or villainous “Dragon Lady” characters, cementing harmful tropes in the Western imagination.
4. The Argument for Cultural Appreciation
Proponents of cultural exchange argue that culture is not static or meant to be kept in a museum. It is dynamic, fluid, and enriched through interaction. From this perspective, a non-Chinese person wearing a cheongsam can be a powerful act of appreciation. The cheongsam itself, a fusion of Manchu and Han styles influenced by Western tailoring, is a product of cultural exchange. To gatekeep it, some argue, would be to deny the very spirit of evolution that created it.
The key, for this side of the argument, is intent and respect. When someone takes the time to learn about the cheongsam’s history, purchases an authentic piece, and wears it to an appropriate occasion, it is seen as a gesture of honor. It can open doors for conversation, allowing the wearer to share what they have learned and express their admiration for Chinese culture. For many Chinese designers and citizens, seeing their national dress admired and worn globally is a source of immense pride. It signals that their culture is being seen, valued, and celebrated on the world stage.
5. The Argument Against Cultural Appropriation
Conversely, the argument against its unvetted adoption is rooted in the painful history of colonialism and systemic power imbalances. For centuries, Western powers have exoticized and objectified Asian cultures while simultaneously marginalizing Asian people. This phenomenon, termed “Orientalism” by scholar Edward Said, frames the East as mystical, backward, and feminine, in contrast to the rational, progressive, and masculine West.
When a person from a dominant culture wears a cheongsam, it can be perceived through this historical lens. It risks becoming an act of consumption, where a piece of a marginalized culture is stripped of its meaning and turned into a costume or a fleeting fashion trend for the privileged. This is especially hurtful for members of the Asian diaspora who may have been bullied or “othered” for their cultural attire, only to see it celebrated when worn by a white person. Furthermore, when large Western brands profit from cheongsam-inspired designs without collaborating with or compensating Chinese artisans, it becomes an act of economic extraction, continuing a pattern of colonial exploitation. The garment is divorced from its creators and its community, causing both cultural and financial harm.
6. Navigating the Nuances: A Path Forward
Given the complexity of the issue, how can one engage with the cheongsam respectfully? The path forward lies in education, mindfulness, and a commitment to honoring the source culture. It requires moving beyond a simple “Can I wear this?” to a more thoughtful “How can I wear this in a way that is respectful and supportive?”
For those outside of Chinese culture who wish to wear a cheongsam, here are some guidelines for navigating this space ethically:
| Dos | Don’ts |
|---|---|
| Do your research. Learn about the cheongsam’s history and cultural context from reputable sources like museums or educational sites like Cheongsamology.com. | Don’t treat it as a costume. Avoid wearing it for Halloween or a theme party that exoticizes the culture. |
| Do purchase from Chinese or Asian-owned brands and artisans. This directly supports the source community. | Don’t buy cheap, mass-produced knock-offs that trivialize the craftsmanship and artistry of the garment. |
| Do wear it for an appropriate occasion, such as a formal event, a cultural celebration, or a wedding. | Don’t alter the garment in a way that disrespects its form, such as making it overly sexualized. |
| Do be prepared to talk about it. If someone compliments your dress, use it as a chance to share its cultural significance. | Don’t claim it as a mere fashion choice devoid of meaning or ignore its cultural origins. |
By following these principles, one shifts from a passive consumer to an active and respectful participant in cultural exchange.
The global debate over the cheongsam is more than a conversation about a dress. It is a microcosm of the larger, necessary dialogue our interconnected world is having about culture, identity, and respect. There are no easy answers, and opinions will likely remain divided. The passion on both sides stems from a deep love and reverence for the garment and the culture it represents. Ultimately, the cheongsam’s journey reflects its enduring power. It is a garment beautiful enough to be desired globally and meaningful enough to be fiercely protected. The future of its global presence will be shaped not by silencing the debate, but by engaging in it with empathy, historical awareness, and a genuine desire to honor, rather than simply take.
