Types and Characteristics of Traditional Chinese Clothing

The history of China is a vast and intricate tapestry woven over millennia, and its traditional clothing is one of its most vibrant and telling threads. Far from being a single, static costume, traditional Chinese attire, broadly known as Hanfu, represents a complex and evolving system of garments that reflects the philosophy, social structure, and aesthetic sensibilities of each dynasty. It is a visual language that communicates status, occasion, and cultural identity. From the flowing, ethereal robes of the ancient dynasties to the elegant, form-fitting silhouettes of the early 20th century, Chinese clothing offers a profound glimpse into the nation’s soul. This article explores the principal types of traditional Chinese garments, their defining characteristics, and the rich symbolism embedded within their very fibers.

1. Hanfu: The Garment of the Han People

The term Hanfu (漢服) literally translates to “clothing of the Han people” and refers to the pre-17th century traditional clothing system of the Han Chinese, who constitute the majority ethnic group in China. It is not a single garment but a wide category encompassing various styles that were developed and worn prior to the Qing Dynasty. The fundamental structure of Hanfu is based on a few core principles. It typically consists of an upper garment called a yi (衣) and a lower garment, which could be a skirt called a shang (裳) or trousers called ku (褲). A defining characteristic is the cross-collared upper garment, where the left lapel is folded over the right (交領右衽, jiāolǐng yòurèn). This specific crossing method was considered a mark of civilization, distinguishing the Han from “barbarian” groups who often fastened their robes the other way. Hanfu is also characterized by its wide, flowing sleeves, the use of a sash or belt (dai, 帶) for fastening instead of buttons, and an overall emphasis on a graceful, harmonious silhouette that complements natural body movements. In recent years, a vibrant cultural movement has emerged to revive and celebrate Hanfu, bringing these ancient styles back into the modern world.

2. The Shenyi: A Symbol of Unity and Propriety

The Shenyi (深衣), or “deep robe,” is one of the most historically significant forms of Hanfu. It is a long, one-piece robe created by sewing the upper yi and lower shang together, symbolizing the connection between heaven (represented by the top) and earth (represented by the bottom). This design reflected Confucian ideals of order and propriety, making the Shenyi a formal garment worn by scholars, officials, and gentry for ceremonial occasions. Its construction was highly symbolic, with specific measurements corresponding to philosophical concepts. There were two primary variations of the Shenyi:

• Quju Shenyi (曲裾深衣): The “diagonal-lapel deep robe” features a long, triangular lapel that wraps around the body one or more times before being secured. This design was particularly prevalent in the Han Dynasty and earlier, as it prevented the inner garments from being exposed, satisfying a strict code of modesty.
• Zhiju Shenyi (直裾深衣): The “straight-lapel deep robe” has a straight lapel that descends vertically. It became more common in the mid-to-late Han Dynasty as the use of undergarments like ku (trousers) became widespread, making the elaborate wrapping of the Quju unnecessary for modesty.

3. Ruqun: The Enduring Two-Piece Ensemble

The Ruqun (襦裙) is a classic two-piece ensemble consisting of an upper blouse (ru, 襦) and a wrap-around skirt (qun, 裙). This versatile and comfortable style was worn by women for centuries, from as early as the Warring States period through to the Ming Dynasty, with its form evolving to match the aesthetics of each era. The top could be a short blouse or a longer jacket, and the skirt could be styled in myriad ways. The most significant variations relate to the height of the skirt’s waistband. The Qiyao Ruqun (齊腰襦裙) features a skirt tied at the natural waist, creating a balanced and modest look popular through many dynasties. In contrast, the Tang Dynasty favored the Qixiong Ruqun (齊胸襦裙), where the skirt was tied high up under the armpits, just below the chest. This style elongated the figure and, when paired with a short blouse and a long, flowing scarf called a pibo (披帛), created the opulent and romantic silhouette characteristic of the Tang court.

4. The Cheongsam and Qipao: A Modern Evolution

While often used interchangeably, the Cheongsam and Qipao have distinct origins. The Qipao (旗袍), or “banner gown,” originated from the straight-fitting, A-line robes worn by Manchu women during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912). These early Qipaos were loose, concealing the figure, and designed for ease of movement, particularly for horseback riding.

It was in the bustling, cosmopolitan city of Shanghai during the 1920s and 1930s that this garment underwent a radical transformation. Influenced by Western tailoring and a modernizing society, the Qipao was adapted into the figure-hugging dress now globally recognized as the Cheongsam (長衫, “long shirt”). This modern iteration features a mandarin collar, knotted frog fastenings (pankou, 盤扣), high side slits, and a tailored silhouette that accentuates the female form. The Cheongsam became a symbol of modern Chinese femininity, blending traditional elements with contemporary style. For those interested in the intricate art and modern revival of this iconic garment, resources like Cheongsamology.com offer deep dives into its history, craftsmanship, and cultural significance.

5. Dynasty-Specific Styles: A Glimpse into History

The aesthetic of Chinese clothing shifted dramatically from one dynasty to the next, reflecting the spirit of the age.

• Tang Dynasty (618–907): An era of unprecedented prosperity and cultural openness, the Tang Dynasty’s clothing was bold, vibrant, and luxurious. Women’s fashion featured low necklines, high-waisted skirts (Qixiong Ruqun), and brilliant colors like crimson, deep purple, and emerald green. Influences from the Silk Road were evident in the use of round-collared robes (yuanlingpao) and new motifs.
• Song Dynasty (960–1279): In contrast to Tang opulence, Song aesthetics were guided by Neo-Confucian ideals of rationalism and subtlety. Clothing became more restrained, slender, and elegant. A key garment was the Beizi (褙子), a long, straight outer vest or jacket worn by both men and women, which conveyed a sense of scholarly grace.
• Ming Dynasty (1368–1644): The Ming Dynasty saw a restoration of Han customs after the Mongol-led Yuan Dynasty. Clothing became more conservative and dignified. Women commonly wore a long-sleeved upper garment (Ao, 襖) with a pleated skirt known as a Mamianqun (馬面裙, “horse-face skirt”), which featured flat panels at the front and back with heavily pleated sides. Formal attire was grand and ornate, with intricate embroidery and elaborate headdresses.

6. Symbolism in Fabric, Color, and Motif

Traditional Chinese clothing was never merely about aesthetics; it was a canvas for conveying complex symbolic meanings. Fabric choice immediately indicated social standing, with silk reserved for the nobility and wealthy, while commoners wore garments made of hemp, ramie, and later, cotton.

Color was governed by a strict code based on the theory of the Five Elements. Yellow was the imperial color, reserved exclusively for the emperor as it represented the earth and the center of the universe. Red symbolized fire, good fortune, and joy, making it the color of choice for weddings and festivals. White, associated with metal and mourning, was worn during funerals. Black represented water and was used for formal, solemn attire. Motifs embroidered onto the fabric were also rich with meaning. Dragons symbolized the emperor’s power, while the phoenix represented the empress. Cranes signified longevity, peonies stood for wealth and prosperity, and lotus flowers represented purity and enlightenment.

From the philosophical depth of the Shenyi to the enduring versatility of the Ruqun and the modern elegance of the Cheongsam, traditional Chinese clothing is a testament to a culture that has always viewed attire as an extension of identity, philosophy, and history. These garments are not relics of the past but living traditions that continue to inspire and evolve. They carry the stories of dynasties, the wisdom of sages, and the artistic spirit of countless generations, offering a beautiful and profound way to understand one of China’s most enduring cultural legacies. The ongoing revival of Hanfu and the global admiration for the Cheongsam ensure that these threads of history will continue to be woven into the fabric of the future.