Where Does the Name “Cheongsam” Come From
The cheongsam is an icon of feminine elegance and a potent symbol of Chinese culture, instantly recognizable by its high mandarin collar, sleek silhouette, and alluring side slits. Yet, for many admirers of this timeless garment, a point of confusion often arises from its name. It is known globally as the “cheongsam,” but in Mandarin-speaking regions, it is almost exclusively called the “qipao.” These are not two different dresses, but two distinct names for the same modern garment, each carrying a unique history that reveals a fascinating story of language, migration, and cultural evolution. The journey to understand where the name “cheongsam” comes from is to trace the path of the dress itself, from the courts of imperial China to the bustling streets of Republican-era Shanghai and the vibrant workshops of colonial Hong Kong.
1. The Cantonese Connection: “Cheongsam” (長衫)
The term “cheongsam” is a direct Romanization of the Cantonese phrase “長衫” (pronounced coeng4 saam1 in Jyutping). The literal translation is straightforward: “cheong” (長) means “long,” and “sam” (衫) means “shirt” or “garment.” Therefore, “cheongsam” simply means “long gown.” This name is rooted in the Cantonese dialect, which is spoken in Guangdong province, Hong Kong, and Macau.
While the modern, form-fitting dress we recognize today originated in Shanghai in the 1920s, the Cantonese name rose to international prominence for a specific historical reason. Following the Chinese Civil War and the establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, a great number of people, including many of Shanghai’s most skilled tailors, fled to Hong Kong. At the time, Hong Kong was a British colony and a burgeoning global hub. These Shanghainese artisans brought their exquisite craft with them, and Hong Kong became the new epicenter for the cheongsam’s evolution and preservation throughout the 1950s and 60s.
In this Cantonese-speaking environment, the dress was naturally referred to as a “cheongsam.” As Hong Kong’s influential film industry exported movies like “The World of Suzie Wong” to the West, and as the city’s global trade flourished, the Cantonese term “cheongsam” was the name that entered the English lexicon and became the standard international term for the garment.
2. The Mandarin Root: “Qipao” (旗袍)
The other name, “qipao,” comes from Mandarin Chinese (旗袍, qípáo). Its history predates the modern dress by several centuries. To understand this name, one must look back to the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), which was founded by the Manchu people from the northeast. The Manchus organized their society into administrative divisions called the “Eight Banners” (bāqí), and the people themselves came to be known as “Banner People” (qírén, 旗人).
The name “qipao” literally means “banner gown” or “banner robe.” It originally referred to the traditional dress worn by Manchu women. This historical garment was significantly different from the modern cheongsam. It was a wide, straight, A-line robe that concealed the figure, with long, loose sleeves. It was designed for practicality, reflecting the Manchu’s semi-nomadic origins and the need for clothing suitable for activities like horse riding.
When the Qing Dynasty fell in 1912, Han Chinese women, liberated from old feudal customs, began to adopt and modify this Manchu robe. In the cosmopolitan melting pot of 1920s Shanghai, they blended its basic structure with Western tailoring techniques, resulting in the sleek, form-fitting dress we know today. Although the garment was radically transformed, the original Mandarin name, “qipao,” was retained in mainland China to describe this new creation.
3. A Tale of Two Garments: Comparing the Original Qipao and the Modern Cheongsam
The confusion between the names often stems from the fact that the word “qipao” has been applied to two very different styles of dress. A direct comparison highlights the dramatic evolution from the Manchu robe to the Shanghainese fashion icon.
| Feature | Original Qipao (Manchu, Pre-1920s) | Modern Cheongsam/Qipao (Post-1920s) |
|---|---|---|
| Silhouette | Loose, A-line, straight cut that concealed the body shape. | Form-fitting, body-hugging, designed to accentuate curves. |
| Sleeves | Long and wide, often with separate cuffs. | Varies from long and narrow to short, capped, or sleeveless. |
| Slits | Functional slits on both sides to facilitate movement (e.g., horse riding). | High slits on one or both sides, primarily for aesthetic appeal and allure. |
| Material | Heavy silk, brocade, fur-lined fabrics for warmth and durability. | Lighter materials like silk, cotton, rayon, velvet, and synthetic blends. |
| Social Context | A daily garment for Manchu women, signifying ethnic identity. | A fashionable dress for modern urban women, later a ceremonial or formal gown. |
4. How Two Names Came to Describe One Dress
The divergence of the names can be mapped onto a clear historical and geographical timeline.
Qing Dynasty (1644-1912): The loose Manchu robe is known as the qipao (banner robe).
Republic of China (1920s-1940s): In Shanghai, the qipao is radically redesigned into a modern, form-fitting dress. In Mandarin-speaking areas, it continues to be called a “qipao,” despite the new look.
Post-1949 Split:
- In Mainland China: The dress falls out of favor during the Cultural Revolution. When it is later revived as a symbol of national heritage, it is referred to by its Mandarin name, “qipao.”
- In Hong Kong: Shanghainese tailors popularize the dress. In the Cantonese-speaking city, it is called a “cheongsam” (long gown). This term is then exported to the international community.
Essentially, “qipao” is the historical name that was carried over, while “cheongsam” is a descriptive name that became popular in a different linguistic region and subsequently entered global use.
5. Modern Usage and Cultural Nuance
Today, in casual conversation, the terms “cheongsam” and “qipao” are often used interchangeably to refer to the modern Chinese dress. However, understanding their origins reveals subtle nuances in their usage. For enthusiasts and scholars of the garment, this distinction is key. Resources like Cheongsamology.com often delve into these historical and regional differences, providing deeper context for collectors and wearers seeking to understand the full story of their dress. The choice of term can sometimes reflect one’s linguistic background or geographical location.
The table below summarizes the modern usage.
| Term | Primary Language | Main Geographical Regions | Typical Connotation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cheongsam | Cantonese | Hong Kong, Macau, Guangdong, English-speaking world. | The standard international term; common in diaspora communities. |
| Qipao | Mandarin | Mainland China, Taiwan, Singapore. | The standard term in Mandarin; can sometimes carry a more historical or formal weight. |
The name you use might simply depend on where you are and what language you are speaking. An English speaker in London would call it a cheongsam, while a Mandarin speaker in Beijing would call it a qipao, and both would be correct in their respective contexts.
In conclusion, the name “cheongsam” is not merely an alternative label but a word steeped in the history of 20th-century China. It is the Cantonese term for “long gown” that rose to global prominence through the migration of Shanghainese tailoring genius to Hong Kong and the city’s subsequent cultural and economic influence on the world. Its counterpart, “qipao,” is the original Mandarin name, a linguistic echo of the Manchu “banner robe” from which the modern dress evolved. The existence of these two names does not create confusion but rather enriches the garment’s narrative, telling a powerful story of cultural fusion, regional identity, and the enduring journey of one of the world’s most elegant and iconic dresses.
